The Hidden Gems of Central Mexico: CDMX x San Miguel de Allende
San Miguel de Allende has been on my list of places to visit since it was first voted “Best City in the World” by Travel + Leisure back in 2017. After celebrating the new year solo in Mexico City back in 2017, I realized that it was a three hour trek away from the most central point of the country, and was determined to make the journey. I wouldn’t have this opportunity again until this October as my birthday month served as the perfect opportunity for a new adventure. Typically when I travel solo I immerse myself in an authentic cultural experience. Fraternizing with the locals, dining at the best restaurants and visiting art museums that showcase the soul of the city. After doing my Googles, I discovered that San Miguel de Allende was the hidden gem of Mexico’s modern wine country. I honestly found it hard to believe that Mexico was the first place in North America where grapes were planted back in the 16th century. Today, many producers in Central Mexico rely on Spanish influences to bottle up their single varietal wines like Tempranillo, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Chardonnay, and Semillon to name a few.
CDMX-
After landing in Mexico City, I took my talents to La Condesa for a content shoot with Aldo Doring, of El Ojo de Dominga at the beautiful Casa Decu, a chic boutique hotel offering a mix of luxury and practicality in the epicenter of one of Mexico City’s best neighborhoods. Casa Decu’s Mexican art deco and vine-lined rooftop served as the backdrop for the shoot I’ve been wanting to pull off ever since I launched theblackwineo.com. Working with Aldo was such a pleasure, as much of our interaction beforehand took place through email or WhatsApp. Naturally, I worked up an appetite after our shoot, and Aldo was kind enough to drop me off at nearby Osteria 8, an Italian restaurant ducked off in Colonia Condesa. For dinner I enjoyed a simple caesar salad and Spaghetti Carbonara paired with two glasses of their house Rose’. It wasn’t long before the hand-rolled pasta gave me the itis. After a few more sips of wine, sleep won.
SMA-
The three hour journey to San Miguel was peaceful. I slept most of the trip as Primera Plus offered a luxury coach bus experience from Terminal Norte directly to San Miguel de Allende. Upon arrival, I could tell that this city was charming, and I was eager to explore everything it had to offer. My first stop was to check-in at the Jewels of San Miguel. Nestled, near the highest point of the city- El Mirador, my casita was a beautiful home away from home with an incredible view. Now on to the important stuff like wine—After getting lost a few times due to communication barriers with my taxi driver I arrived at Bodega Dos Buhos Winery for a tasting.
Bodega Dos Buhos - This small batch winery sits on three acres of family owned land which produces 10 varietals that include Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, Moscato, Sauvignon Blanc, Agilianico. Cabernet Franc, and Giallo. After learning more about the history of their wine from Maria, I began to admire their respect and love for winemaking. They produce certified organic wines using natural fermentation and produce different styles of wines in limited editions. I indulged in three of their current wines and their dessert wine- Moscato Giallo for my tasting paired with a cheese board. The vineyard produces around 9,000 bottles annually, at the moment, the only place where you can get their wines is directly at the winery, local shops and the infamous Pujol restaurant in Mexico, City. The “Two Owls” vineyard also doubles as an event space for special occasions and corporate events.
Cuna De Tierra- About 30 minutes away from SMA is the city of Dolores Hidalgo, and where I ventured to indulge in more wine at the massive vineyards of Cuna de Tierra. With over 30 acres this international winemaker produces six red wines and one white. The first commercial wines were produced in 2008, but they are currently introducing new grape varieties, among which are Portuguese, Italian and French, with the intention of evaluating those that best adapt to the terroir. I chose to pass on the Spanish-only tour of the vineyard by tractor and went straight in for my reserved tasting. For $500MXN I was able to taste three wines and a charcuterie board complete with meat and cheese. The winetender was knowledgeable about the history of the wine and was attentive as I soaked in as much as I could about the winemaking production. Cuna de Tierra has won numerous awards for its wine, and the design of the independent structures that house the wine. Designed by the architects Ignacio Urquiza Seoane and Bernardo Quinzaños Oriahe, the building honors the history and land that has allowed the conception of the various vine varieties that surround it. Cuna de Tierra is Winederlust approved.